Winterim 2018 in India

2018 Partner Program to India

ARRIVAL, AGRA, ANTICIPATION! - Marge

As we stepped out of the Delhi airport late last night, we were met with our first impressions of India—for some, it was the excess amount of dogs in the vicinity, for others the chaos of the buses in the street, or the smog that covered buildings a few kilometers away. Either way, we met India with excitement and an open heart for this unique adventure.

Early this morning, we drifted off to a brief sleep to the barks of the dogs and the vivacity of Bollywood music outside our windows at the Delhi YMCA. These sounds woke us up in the morning and we soon welcomed chai and delicious hot breakfast with glee. We repeated introductions—as well as the poop scale.

We hopped on two buses to drive to Agra where we will soon experience the Taj!! The bus ride was eventful to say the least. Both buses spotted the nilgai and peacocks (to mention a few) on the side of the highway and admired the diverse landscape. Hemant taught us about Indian brick ovens, current politics, and unique botany. He also bestowed on us an extremely special window into his life as a yogi; he attempted to teach us chants from his 4:30am mornings from his schooling. Hemant never failed to pull out a new Indian snack every five minutes, including but not limited to spicy cheetos, tomato potato chips, and peanuts.

We passed the rest of the time in the bus playing games such as “Tennis,” Ninja, and the iconic down-by-the-riverside. Coombs was nuts about the baadams.

When we arrived at Maya Hotel and Restaurant, we ate lunch and headed to FabIndia. Again, a bus ride of adventure. We traveled through densely populated city squares with cows holding up traffic, families of five on one motorcycle, and a collection of modern and molding structures. Glimpses of the Taj Mahal through the city park trees raised our excitement levels as our eyes stayed glued to the windows of the bus.

FabIndia was in my opinion extremely overwhelming as I utterly despise shopping. Maggie reports that she spent a whole three hours shopping without dropping! Uttara and Rebecca were vital resources in helping us pick traditional Indian garb that we will sport to the Taj Mahal tomorrow!

We ended the first day in India with a delicious dinner and a feeling of anticipation for the days to come.

OUR DAY IN AGRA - Carly, Caroline, and Emma

Today began with an early morning wake up call- chai and biscuits in the hotel restaurant at 6:00 AM. We then left to tour the gardens across the river from the Taj Mahal. The early morning fog made it hard to see more than 10 feet in front of us. But as time passed, the dark outline of the Taj’s grand sculpas began to appear through the clouds. On our drive back from the gardens, we watched as the people of Agra began their days- with men brushing their teeth out in front of their houses and mothers escorting uniform-clad children to catch the morning school bell.

After returning to the hotel for a more substantial breakfast, we made the short drive down the street to Sheros, an organization dedicated to helping victims of acid attacks find their footing again. Acid attacks are far too common in India, often perpetrated by a woman’s own family as a result of unrequited love or failure to birth a son. Sheros runs a café in Agra where the women survivors of these attacks can work and sell their handmade products- in a way similar to Nashville’s own Thistle Farms. We were greeted (with more chai) by a woman named Rupa, who showed us a documentary about the survivors’ stories and answered our questions regarding the culture of acid attacks in India. At Harpeth Hall we are constantly reminded that women’s voices matter. But for these women, their voices were found only after a long and painful journey. Rupa spoke about how Sheros not only offers a haven for women who feel ostracized from their former communities, but also is helping to bring the issue of acid attacks to the public’s attention. Their success is most directly exemplified in Dehli, where as a result of their protests, buying acid is now a much more regulated process. Their beauty and strength instilled in us all a feeling of empowerment of the voice that is given too us and how we must use it.

After returning to the hotel again for lunch and a short debrief, we donned our new Indian clothing in preparation for out visit to the Taj Mahal. We made the 10 minute trek through back streets filled with children and vendors. We entered the compound through the western gate- one of the three large, red structures that mark the entrances. After a short introduction to the history of the Taj Mahal, we had time to wander and take pictures of the monument. During our exploration many Indian people asked for our pictures with their families. However, what began as comical soon exhausted itself once the tenth family decided to join the photo shoot. Yet this did not distract from the physical and symbolic beauty of the Taj Mahal and the wonderful experience that we now all share.

After the walk back to our hotel, we regrouped on the hotel’s rooftop for an opening ceremony to our experience in India. With the ground decorated with flowers and candles and the air thick with the scent of myrrh, our leaders read us a poem and a quote that served to guide our trip in India. We reflected on how this trip will not only teach us about a new place and culture, but it will also teach us much about our selves. We were each given a flower and a bracelet of red string. The red string serves to remind us of our connection to those around us and with our purpose on this trip. We each internalized what we hope to take away from this trip and had our neighbor tie the red string around our wrists.

Whether it be jet lag or the innumerable amount of naan we have already consumed, it is hard to believe we have only been in India for two days. The experiences and growing friendships we have already shared will last us a lifetime, and we have yet to embark on many more adventures in the coming weeks!

A DAY IN INDIA -Tricia, McKenzie, and Maggie

McKenzie, Maggie, and Tricia coming at you live from the rooftop of our funky, Jaipur hotel. Welcome! We are surrounded by car horns, colorful twinkle lights, and the music from the restaurant below. For the first time in a while, we can see stars above us. Soon, we will hit the hay, but for now, let’s recount the events of the day.

Our morning began at 7:30 am for steaming hot chai, cornflakes (with ~warm~ milk), homemade bread, and bananas. After breakfast, we left Agra behind for Wildlife SOS. An hour drive took us to the first wildlife sanctuary of the day. At the sanctuary we saw sloth bears for the first time and learned about the ancient culture of the “dancing” bear. “Dancing” bears started about 400 years ago by the Kalendar tribe as a way to entertain the kings. Mother bears are killed and the cubs are sent into the trade. A hot iron is pierced through their snout, so a rope can be pulled through giving the owner power over the bears. In 2009, Wildlife SOS rescued the last dancing bear in India. One story that resonated with us was the story of Rose, a young female cub who lost her paw to poachers. Since being rescued, rose has become an “empowered young female that defies her disability by climbing trees”. The veterinarian at the sanctuary gave a demonstration involving many needles, and Margot ~may~ or may not have had to leave the room. We met up with Harpeth Hall alum, Reed Nirula, and her husband, Arjan, to head ten minutes down the round to the elephant sanctuary. Instead of enclosed green spaces, we were met with “wide open spaces, a room to make a big mistake” and sand. (P.S. We are writing this at 11:30 pm and losing our minds)

Our first endeavor at the elephant sanctuary was a boxed lunch that included two hard boiled eggs, a shredded cheese and mayo sandwich, fruit, and Appy Fizz. One of our favorite stories of the day was when Marguerite Coombs’ Appy Fizz exploded, everyone laughed, and no one aided. It was funnier when we realized that all the men at the sanctuary were laughing at her along with us.

Then, we went to go meet the elephants! Everyone got to feed and learn about their tragic history. It’s inspiring how easily the elephants trust and forgive the new trainers, after being tortured for many years. We got to meet the founders of Wildlife SOS and discuss the laws about elephant trafficking in India and surrounding countries. We said goodbye to the elephants and headed to Jaipur.

To fill our time on the bus ride, we sang camp songs and played games. After jamming for five hours to Bollywood music, we have finally arrived in Jaipur, and here we are again on this rooftop.

McKenzie looks like Paul Leon Tuzenu with her cargo pants and many accents. Tricia is still recovering from the the curds from dinner, commonly used in Indian cuisine to quell spices. Maggie looks like a bandit in her bandanna. Thanks for tuning in, updates from fellow travelers to come! Alavida!

ANOKHI AND CHOKI DHANI - Kathleen and Helen

Today was another look at India’s many sides. This morning we met on the rooftop of the Kalyan Hotel for energizing yoga! The view of Jaipur was a stunning start to the morning. The skyline is more visible with less smog than Delhi and Agra. After an outdoor breakfast at the hotel, we packed into the buses for shopping at Anokhi–an Indian clothing store that features ethically sourced materials and traditional Rajasthan prints.

After shopping, we all headed back to the hotel for downtime on the patio. We were able to share our research on various aspects of Indian culture such as environmental problems, water sources and contamination, Hinduism, and reverence for cows (holy cows). After some chai, we had about an hour of free time, and then we left for Chokhi Dhani. This is a simulation of a traditional Rajasthani village. Here we got to experience camel rides, henna tattoos, fire breathers, Indian dancers, tightrope walkers, artisan shops, and a traditional sit-down dinner. The dinner was especially fun because we ate barefoot and sat on mats on the ground with an array of dishes to try.

Overall, today was relatively relaxing compared to previous days. We were busy, but had time to reflect on the trip so far and what is to come. We are looking forward to another day in Jaipur!

DAY 5 - Caroline, Megan, and Margot

After a breakfast on the rooftop, we headed to Amer Fort. The bus ride was about an hour and as we climbed the dessert hills we were able to see a new side of Jaipur and India. As we approached the fort we saw the masses of elephants being used to carry tourists up the hill. After learning about the abuse these animals often face while at Wildlife SOS, we as a group were proud to steer clear of this attraction. After a tenuous hike up the many stairs we entered the main courtyard of the fort. While waiting, we had many photo opportunities with eager Indians who are fascinated by the USA. After breaking into smaller groups, we admired the fort’s elaborate floor plan as we explored many winding hallways, and took photos of the breathtaking scenery.

We then walked on paths through the village to the Anokhi Museum. Our walk allowed us to take in the many smells and sights of India. A highlight was when a monkey ran right through our line of girls. Once at the museum, we admired demonstrations of traditional block printing. We learned about the creative history of this form of art, viewed the differences between clothes associated with each region, and developed an appreciation for hand made clothing. It was interesting to see how the products we bought yesterday had been made and the large impact our purchases had on the block printers and their communities.

After departing the Anokhi and eating lunch at the Indian Coffee House, we headed to an open air market. Here, we tested our hand at bartering. Some had great success and some had great failure. It was fun to interact with the Indian street vendors.

Over dinner we discussed our contentment with how our day was spent and our excitement rto depart for the Vatsayla School tomorrow. Hope all is well in Nashville! Stay warm 😉

JANUARY 15 - Augusta and Ellie

This morning, less people participated in yoga due to the frigid desert climate. We all made it to breakfast at 8:15 then headed to our small groups for check-in. Because it is Monday, the kids were in school and we did not want to distract them by being around their classrooms, so we spent some time picking up trash around campus instead of painting the fence. We then divided into five groups to create lesson plans for the children in the afternoon. Each group decided on a different activity–dancing, friendship bracelet making, games to help with English, ABCs, and pictionary. Then we had a chai break followed by a short break in which some of us went to prepare vegetables for lunch. Before lunch, we gathered again to share Life Maps, then we had lunch outside with the school kids.

After lunch, we had a break before heading to the school to teach our lessons. We went over at around 1:45 and worked with the different grades in 3 30-minute interval rotations. We all found that being teachers was not as straight-forward as we expected, and we all had to be flexible and think of creative ways to engage the children. The youngest kids were very rambunctious while the grade above them was more well-behaved. It was apparent in the older grades that the boys are more dominant in the classroom than the girls, who were quiet and stayed in the back.

When school ended, we regrouped and enjoyed some pomegranates, papaya, and lots of bananas. We talked about our experiences working with the kids and Coach Baker began our compliment circle with some kind words about the birthday girl, Caroline Ryan. Caroline continued with her compliments about our Dragons instructor Rebecca, and so on. We hope to continue and finish the circle throughout the rest of our time in India.

During free time, we had fun playing with the children, braiding each other’s hair, and doing laundry. We then had a meditation before dinner. At dinner 11 of Vatsalya’s students and workers were blessed because tonight they leave for Rajasthan’s kickboxing competition. After dinner, we gathered together on the basketball court and shared Life Maps and research topics. Afterwards, Ellie and Augusta struggled in the cold to finish writing this.

Hey y’all! We wanted to add onto last night’s post and give more detail about our day. Yesterday was our first full day in Vatsalya, as well as Kathleen’s birthday It was also a very special kite festival, so many kids were flying kites off campus. We started the day with some early morning yoga. The cold was not enjoyable that early in the morning, but we managed to push through until breakfast. We had some delicious flattened rice and, of course, Chai outside with the children. Right after breakfast, the children at Vatsalya had a farewell ceremony for another visiting group of students from Australia. The teachers and boys were blessed with red paint and rice on their foreheads. After their goodbyes, we had some free time with the children. Augusta enjoyed tag with some of the kids. Now was time for work! We were split into two groups–half of us began planning for school activities for the kids on Monday, while the others began painting the fence surrounding campus. Ellie did not have a great time sandpaper-ing the fences in preparation for paint, but she did what she had to do.

After an hour, we refueled with a chai break. Afterwards, a few of us continued painting while the rest played games with the kids. Uttara gave everyone a very informative demonstration of how to do our laundry using a bucket and soap. Ellie did her laundry. Augusta did not. A few of the kids taught us a new game involving five participants but only four corners. Before lunch, we were gifted butterfinger-like snacks which were amazing! We had a spicy lunch followed by check-in and some free time to play with the kids.

At 4, almost everyone participated in a Bollywood dance class taught by Sita, a young girl who works at Vatsalya. She was so excited to teach us her choreography popular Bollywood song. Hopefully, we will be able to perform it at the Winterim assembly when we go back to school. After another chai break, we concluded our two-hour practice. While a special dinner was being prepared, we played around with the kids inside the dining area. The kids were SO excited to show off their muscles by doing a pull-up competition. Marguerite Trost impressed all of us enormously with her strength. At dinner, Kathleen and Caroline Ryan were blessed.

After dinner, we laid under the stars on the basketball court for some Life Map presentations and research topics. The night ended magically as a shooting star graced the night sky just long enough for all of us to have a glimpse.

JANUARY 18 - Maggie

Greetings from Delhi! I am writing you from our YMCA hostel in central Delhi; the toilet is making a loud humming noise, my fellow seniors are chatting about the day, and the city is still awake, even at 12:12 am. We had a very eventful day! We woke up early and visited a Sikh temple, toured the Salaam Balaak trust, visited a 16th century Mughal tomb, and had our final goodbyes with our Dragons instructors.

 

We gathered bright and early in the lobby of the YMCA hostel. We walked through the foggy and polluted streets of Delhi to a nearby Sikh temple. When entering the Sikh temple, we were asked to remove our shoes, wear head scarves, wash our hands, and wash our feet. Imagine being barefoot on marble temple floor while it is 45-50 degrees; I couldn’t feel my toes. We gathered on the grounds and discussed our plan for the day. Hemant and Uttara, two of our Dragons instructors, then introduced the conversation of Gurus.

Hemant described a Guru as a life teacher that practices what they preach, and Uttara asked us to think of the Gurus we have encountered on this trip. On our walk home, I found myself reflecting on the impact people or things have had on me during our experience in India. The first Guru that came to mind was Rupa, a woman who works at Sheroes Cafe (we visited while we were in Agra). Rupa, along with other survivors of acid attacks, has chosen to live her best life, despite being outcasted from society. Sita, a student at the Vatsalya school, functioned as our Bollywood dance guru. The elephants at Wildlife SOS were our gurus in a lesson on forgiveness: elephants, despite being mistreated by humans, do not hate humans. They forgive. And, of course, Rebecca, Hemant, Uttara, Dina, Buffy, and Eric have been our gurus throughout India: they have taught us to recognize the complexities of Indian culture.

When we returned to the hostel, it was breakfast time. We feasted on soup and (what I describe as) mashed potato bites. I’m not even going to pretend that I know what they were called. I had a cup of coffee for the first time in two weeks, and despite the fact that is was a very mediocre cup of coffee, it tasted oh so good.

We were shuttled off in various cars to the Salaam Balaak Trust after breakfast where we met our tour guides for the day. The Salaam Balaak Trust is an organization that works to get children off the streets. Our tour guides were all teenage former street children. On our tour, as we walked through the narrow alleys of Delhi, we stopped at a wall of photos of religious gods. “Do you know why these photos are here?” our tour guide asked, and we shook our heads. After a couple of laughs from our instructors, we learned that the pictures of religious figures are up to prevent public urination in the alleyway, which was kind of hilarious. We met a handful of children that spend their days at the Salaam Balaak Trust and challenged them to some pretty intense thumb wars. All in all, the Salaam Balaak trust is doing really great work in Delhi and has helped thousands of street children.

After we escaped the labyrinth of alleyways surrounding the trust, we drove to a vegetarian South Indian restaurant. We feasted on masala dosas and, of course, chai. Our last activity of the day was Humayun’s tomb outside of Delhi. The building is an architectural precursor to the Taj Mahal constructed in the late 15500s-early 1600s. This is one of Uttara’s favorite places, and I understand why. There was an undeniable spirit of peace and happiness throughout the grounds. We had the opportunity to explore the grounds of the tomb and wander (my personal favorite activity).

We ate dinner at Pindi (10/10 would recommend the naan) and returned to the hostel for a memorable final meeting with our Dragons instructors. Tears were shed, yet laughs were shared. This afternoon, Kathleen described this trip as life changing, and I have to agree with her. And this trip wouldn’t have happened without our Dragons instructors. Rebecca, Hemant, and Uttara have shown us not only the physical India, but they have also allowed us to understand the mind of the Indian people. I am so grateful to know them.